Loan programs
There is almost always a program that fits.
Most people are told no by one lender and assume that's the whole market. It isn't. Below is the full range I can place, from standard conventional financing to programs built for self-employed borrowers and investors — plus what actually decides the rate you're offered.
The core four
Where most buyers land
Conventional
The most common loan in the country and usually the cheapest over time for borrowers with decent credit.
- As little as 3% down for first-time buyers
- Mortgage insurance drops off at 20% equity
- Typically needs a 620+ credit score
- Primary, second home, or investment
FHA
Government-backed and far more forgiving on credit history, which makes it the entry point for a lot of first-time buyers.
- 3.5% down with a 580+ score
- More flexible on past credit issues
- Higher debt-to-income allowances
- Mortgage insurance usually stays for the loan's life
VA
Earned by service, and genuinely the best loan available in the country if you're eligible.
- Zero down payment on most purchases
- No monthly mortgage insurance, ever
- Competitive rates and flexible credit
- Reusable benefit, with a streamline refinance
USDA
Overlooked, because people assume "rural" means remote. Plenty of Phoenix-adjacent towns qualify.
- Zero down payment
- Property must be in an eligible area
- Household income limits apply
- Lower mortgage insurance than FHA
Beyond the basics
Specialty programs that solve real problems
These are the programs that turn a "no" from a big bank into a closed loan.
Jumbo
For loan amounts above the conforming limit. Higher-value homes across Scottsdale, Paradise Valley, and much of California.
Bank statement loans
Self-employed and your tax returns don't reflect what you really earn? Qualify on 12–24 months of deposits instead.
DSCR investor loans
Qualify the property on its own rental income rather than your personal income. Built for building a portfolio.
Construction & new build
Financing for building from the ground up, plus the permanent loan the construction phase rolls into.
Renovation loans
Buy a home that needs work and finance the repairs into the same mortgage rather than paying cash after closing.
Adjustable-rate (ARM)
A lower fixed rate for the first 5, 7, or 10 years. Sensible if you know you'll move or refinance before it adjusts.
Down payment assistance
Arizona has several programs that help cover down payment and closing costs for qualifying buyers. Worth checking.
Non-QM & asset depletion
For borrowers whose income doesn't fit a standard box — retirees with assets, complex business structures, recent credit events.
Reverse mortgage (HECM)
For homeowners 62+ who want to convert equity into income or eliminate a monthly mortgage payment.
Side by side
Comparing the main programs
| Program | Minimum down | Typical credit floor | Mortgage insurance | Property types |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Conventional | 3% | 620 | Removable at 20% equity | Primary, second, investment |
| FHA | 3.5% | 580 | Usually for the life of the loan | Primary residence only |
| VA | 0% | 580–620 | None | Primary residence only |
| USDA | 0% | 640 | Lower than FHA | Eligible areas, primary only |
| Jumbo | 10–20% | 700+ | Varies by lender | Primary, second, investment |
| Bank statement | 10–20% | 660+ | Varies | Primary, second, investment |
| DSCR | 20–25% | 680+ | Not typically required | Investment only |
Guidelines shown are typical and are not a commitment to lend. Minimums vary by lender, property, and borrower profile, and change over time. Your specific eligibility is confirmed during application.
What sets your rate
Seven things that decide your rate
The advertised rate is never your rate. These are the levers that move it — some you control, some you don't.
Credit score
The single biggest lever. Pricing improves in tiers, so moving from 719 to 740 can matter more than moving from 680 to 700.
Down payment
More equity means less risk to the lender. Crossing 20% also removes mortgage insurance on a conventional loan.
Loan type
Conventional, FHA, VA, USDA and jumbo all price differently, and the cheapest headline rate isn't always the cheapest loan.
Loan term
Shorter terms almost always price better. A 15-year usually beats a 30-year, at the cost of a higher monthly payment.
Occupancy
Primary residences get the best pricing. Second homes cost more, and investment properties cost more again.
Discount points
You can pay upfront to buy the rate down. Whether that's smart depends entirely on how long you'll keep the loan.
The market itself
Mortgage rates track mortgage-backed securities, which react to inflation data, Fed policy, and bond demand — daily.
Choosing
Program questions
FHA or conventional — which is better?
If your credit is strong, conventional usually wins because the mortgage insurance eventually falls off. If your credit is bruised or your debt-to-income is tight, FHA is often the loan that actually gets approved. Many of my clients start with FHA and refinance to conventional once they hit 20% equity.
I was told I don't qualify. Is that final?
Frequently not. A retail bank offers its own products; as a broker I can shop dozens of lenders with different guidelines. It's worth a second look — and if the answer really is no for now, I'll give you a specific plan to change that.
Can I use gift funds for my down payment?
Yes, on most programs, provided the gift is properly documented with a signed letter and a clear paper trail showing where the money came from. Plan this early — undocumented deposits are a classic underwriting delay.
What is mortgage insurance and can I avoid it?
It protects the lender when you put down less than 20%, and it's a real monthly cost to you. You can avoid it with 20% down, with a VA loan, or in some cases with lender-paid arrangements built into the rate. I'll show you what each option actually costs on your loan, because the cheapest monthly payment and the cheapest loan are not always the same thing.
Should I wait for rates to come down?
Nobody reliably predicts rates, including me. What I can tell you is that waiting has a cost too: home prices and competition move as well, and you can always refinance a rate — you can't go back and buy at last year's price. Let's look at your actual numbers rather than a forecast.
What is a rate lock, and when should I lock?
A lock freezes your rate for a set window, usually 30 to 60 days, so market moves during your escrow don't hurt you. I generally recommend locking once you're under contract. Extensions are possible but usually cost something.
What's the difference between rate and APR?
The rate determines your monthly interest. The APR folds in lender fees and certain costs, so it's a better tool for comparing two offers. A loan with a lower rate but a much higher APR is carrying fees you should ask about.
Is it worth paying points to buy down my rate?
Only if you keep the loan long enough to recover the upfront cost. I'll calculate that break-even for you both ways so you can see the actual trade-off instead of guessing.
No obligation · No credit check
Not sure which one is yours?
That's my job. Tell me your situation and I'll tell you which programs you qualify for and which one actually costs you the least.